NARROW ROADS TO
INNER LANDS - SCENE FIVE
In
this scene Bashō
refers to places and people of some fame in Japan still.
...venerable
En-no-Ozunu, Great founder of the Shugen sect.
En no Ozunu, also
En no Ozuno, Otsuno (役小角?)
(b. 634, in Katsuragi; d. c. 700–707) was a Japanese ascetic and
mystic, traditionally held to be the founder of Shugendō, the path
of ascetic training practiced by the gyōja or yamabushi.
He was banished
by the Imperial Court to Izu Ōshima on June 26, 699, but folk tales
at least as old as the Nihon Ryōiki (c. 800) recount his
supernatural powers and exploits.
In folk religion,
En no Ozunu is traditionally held to be the founder of Shugendō, a
syncretic religion incorporating aspects of Taoism, Shinto, esoteric
Buddhism (especially Shingon Mikkyō and the Tendai sect) and
traditional Japanese shamanism.
From
Wikipedia
En no Ozunu
You visited the
great Unganji temple -That famed Zen temple in our province here?
Unganji is one of
the largest temples in Tochigi Ohtawara. Known for being left almost
entirely untouched, visitors truly feel the authenticity and history
of the area. You can see truly authentic Japanese history through the
buildings at Unganji and the scenic forest location makes it all the
more enchanting. To get to the temple, you first cross a traditional
Japanese bridge over a river surrounded by trees. Taking the time to
walk or cycle around Tochigi Ohtawara is quite enjoyable as there is
an endless amount of scenery to admire. Each season has its own
beauty, but if you visit during the height of autumn the land will be
covered in red, yellow and orange. Walking around town, you can also
see rocks with Matsuo Basho’s haikus carved into the stone. From
Authentic Visit Japan http://authentic-visit.jp
Unganji Temple - photo Martin Dudemaine
SCENE FIVE
A room in Kurobane.
Evening light. Candles in lanterns. Two small tables. Jōbōji at
one with Bashō and Sora at the other.
JŌBŌJI
But tell me, Bashō,
sir, while brother Tōsui
Boils evening rice,
just how you travelled from
The waterfall on
Kurokami's side
Along the many miles
to Kurobane?
BASHŌ
Well, Jōbōji, we
chose to walk upon
A short cut leading
straight for miles and miles
Across the level of
the grassy moors.
As evening on
twilight wings drew near,
I spied, far off, a
small-seen village, seeming
Still toylike-tiny,
touching cloud-grey skyline.
Just as we reached
it rain set in and darkness
Began to gather
round us like a cloak.
We stopped - but had
the luck to pass the dark
Well-sheltered, in a
village farmhouse there,
Content to seek good
sleep, still safe and dry.
We rose with dawning
whiteness of new day
And started as the
sun began its journey.
SORA
As we were plodding
onward on our path
We saw a horse, head
bent to roadside grass.
Not far from him a
farmer mowed tall pasture,
His sweep of sickle
catching sun. So Bashō
Politely asked the
man to point the way,
If he were able thus
to aid our travel.
So, after minor time
for thought, he answered
With just a trace of
sympathy, "No good.
You strangers: you
could easily go wrong.
Horse knows the
shortest path. You take him now.
Just send him back
when he will go no further."
We thanked the man
and we set off with Bashō,
Whose legs are
older, riding on ahead.
So by and by we
reached another village,
And sent the patient
horse back with some payment.
From there to here
was fairly easy going.
BASHŌ
And so our errant
way was shortened by
A stranger's
kindness and a creature's wisdom.
(Enter Tōsui with
the rice on a tray. He serves it and sits down.)
TŌSUI
Good master Bashō,
if I may be asking,
Without requiring
forced reply, have you
Viewed much around
here in these last, few days?
BASHŌ
I was invited to a
grace-filled temple
To visit there a
hallowed hall, reputed
The final rest place
for the priestly form
Of venerable
En-no-Ozunu,
Great founder of the
Shugen sect. On all
The high roads and
the by-roads of our land,
He went in wooden
clogs to preach his doctrine.
And there I stood,
most moved, before his statue-
A humble wanderer
myself, without
The high conviction
of historic purpose.
And yet despite this
still I had to write-
In summer
mountains
Bow to a statue's
tall clogs -
Ask journey's
blessing.
(Bashō pauses.)
TŌSUI
And on another day,
good sir, I’ve heard
You visited the
great Unganji temple -
That famed Zen
temple in our province here?
BASHŌ
Indeed that's true,
most noble samurai.
For long I’ve
stored a certain wish to see
Its fine
surroundings, praised so by so many.
And more than that,
my teacher, master Bucchō,
Once lived alone
there, high in nearby hills.
(Bashō rises)
Well, so it was that
I set out one day.
A group of younger
persons walked with me
Along the way. So
cheerful was their talk
We’d reached our
aim before I’d thought of it.
The temple there
stands sided on a mountain,
All massed with
pines and cedars, dark and tall.
A narrow road trails
up the valley, banked
With dripping moss.
It lead us onward to
The temple gate
across the shaky bridge.
Up there the sky was
cold, despite the season.
I went and searched
out back for Bucchō's hut
And found it up a
stony hill, abutting
A rocky ridge, quite
near a cave. I felt
As if I stood within
the presence of
Some ancient's cell
- a most revered retreat -
So penned a verse
and pinned it to a post.
Even woodpeckers
Have not touched
this tiny hut
In a summer grove.
(Bashō pauses
thoughtfully)
But that's enough of
all my chattering.
We must retire early
for we start
With dawn to walk
towards Shirakawa's gate.
All thanks for all
in these past days with you.
SORA
And may I add my
deepest thanks now too.
(Bashō and Sora
rise, bow and exit. Tōsui collects the bowls. Jōbōji puts out
the lights and they exit with a lantern)